Posts Tagged ‘drainage’ < back
Mowing Tips
28th Jun:
Firstly and most importantly choose the correct lawn mower for your lawn. Cylinder mowers are only really suitable for perfectly flat lawns with finer grass types. Consider whether you want stripes (in which case best results come with some sort of roller) whether there are hard to reach or sloping areas (use a lighter fly-mow) or if you need the mower to collect cuttings too.
Make sure your mower is serviced regularly and that the blades are as sharp as possible which will ensure a better cut. Do not cut your lawn too low.
Whenever you fill your mower with petrol, never do this on the actual grass as petrol burns grass.
Don’t cut your lawn too short (min 1 inch). Cutting your lawn too short can encourage lawn diseases, moss and weed growth. Also never cut more than a third of the height at any one time. If you do, it can cause scalping which can take 2-3 mowing cycles to recover.
Also try to remove any clippings from the lawn as this can encourage thatch which means moss will thrive.
Cut your lawn frequently as this encourages it to grow thicker which keeps out the weeds.
Don’t mow the lawn when it is wet as this can cause the soil to be compacted which suffocates the roots and causes bald patches.
Keep your edges nice and neat by using either a half moon edging tool or even installing an edging product such as EverEdge.
If conditions are very dry and the lawn is looking brown, try to keep off the lawn as much as possible as the grass will be dry and brittle and liable to break. Do not cut shorter than 2 inches and do not cut again until there is a sign of growth.
When watering, don’t overwater by watering every day. In the summer every 2-3 days should be enough. Water the lawn early in the morning or during the later part of the day when evaporation is at its lowest. An irrigation system is always a good idea.
Watering deeply will encourage deep root growth.
Aerate your lawn, using a fork on the smaller lawns and specialist machines (that can be hired) on the larger lawns.
Once this is done, scarifiy your grass, again using a hand rake on smaller areas and machines on the larger lawns. These jobs can be done in either order.
Next is the grass seed. On a small lawn scatter it by hand thinly. Careful not to be too generous at the start and run out before all the area is covered. Then using a stiff brush gently ‘encourage’ the seed down the holes as much as possible.
Next apply a top dressing, which is a mixture of compost and wash sand which helps improve drainage and fertility of the soil. Using a soft rake, gently spread the topdressing into the grass.
Feed your lawn regularly with an appropriate lawn fertiliser. This will make it greener and thicker, and helps return nutrients to the soil.
Gareths plants for June
23rd May:
Roses – Now is their peak-time, as June sees all Roses in their absolute element. Options and scope for selection are huge – shrub Roses, old and modern, hybrid tea, floribunda, groundcover, climbing, rambling, species – it can be quite confusing at times to find the ‘right Rose, for the right space’. Generally speaking, they prefer as much sun as possible – there are some exceptions though, such a R. ‘New Dawn’ – an amazing climber. R. ‘Iceberg’ is the all-time modern favourite, and for good reason, as this will flower well into December if happy, and is relatively easy to please. However, my favourite is R. ‘Margaret Merril’ which is unique in the fact that it is a cross between a hybrid tea and a floribunda, and so means that it has highly-scented, large flowers, in abundance – a total winner! Pink buds fade to faint blush and the white flowers that are both huge and sweetly-scented. Black spot and aphids can be a nuisance with all Roses – and sprays combined with fertiliser can prevent both of these, if used correctly. Spray with a combi-spray before blackspot/aphids appear – ‘Roseclear’ is a popular and effective commercial brand. Repeat every 6 weeks. Also, remember, a stressed plant is a vulnerable plant. This may sound silly – but if there is adequate light and sun, rich but free draining soil, and regular watering during dry spells, then a Rose will gain vigour and most importantly – resilience. Much like us – kept healthy and happy, our immune systems are at their best!
Lavender – Now we see why this plant is one of the most well-known and best loved plants throughout history. Tough, independent, undemanding – when happy, Lavender is the kind of plant that thrives on neglect and lack-of-attention. It’s demands are few, but very specific, and often neglected at the expense of its performance – soil, must be free draining, gritty, sandy, relatively low in terms of nutrient content. It hates ‘wet feet’ for long periods, and so free-draining sorry is essential if it is to get through our wet and cold Winters. If needs be, dig in large amounts of horticultural grit and sand into your soil – it’s well worth the effort. Full sun is a must, and water should be modest and reserved. Clip back all the current year’s growth by two thirds at the end of the season, to retain shape and promote bushiness. Spray with a systemic insecticide once or twice in late Spring and early Summer to prevent beetle attack (not a widespread problem, but if a beetle attack happens, it really does ‘happen’, leaving widespread ugly foliage from their roaming, munching habits). L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ is your tradition ‘English Lavender’ – nice and big, dark blue, hardy as they come. If space is an issue, then go for L. ang. ‘Munstead’ which has violet flowers, and reaches half the height of Hidcote at only 40cm. White Lavender is always up and down in terms of fashion trends dictated – largely – by Chelsea. But, it does have its place, and I often use it for that splash of cool, clean white that works so well against its silvery foliage. Lavandula stoechas is the French, or ‘bunny rabbit’ Lavender – very pretty and fun flowers with ribbons of petals at the top, this species is a wonderful choice but is slightly more tender than our English varieties.
Salvia x superba ‘Mainacht’ – the most loved and used of the Salvias. The family is huge, and includes white, black-purple, pink, and the whole range of purple, flowering varieties. Most tend to respond well to being cut back immediately after flowering, to produce a second bloom of smaller, but still impressive, flowers. Be swift and confident – as soon as they have definitely passed their best – even if there are still a few flowers left – cut all flowers back to the next set of unopened buds below the flowers. Or, if feeling a little impatient and reckless – go in there with the sheers… it WILL come back! Much like Lavender, these plants thrive in the same conditions. Salvias are best used in bold displays of at least 3 – be confident, and plant a large clump or sweeping line of them. A wonderful plants for bees and butterflies too.
Cornus kousa – a spectacular and unusual specimen tree, especially useful where space is limited. Its 4-petaled, slightly odd – but deeply striking – flowers are profusely displayed to bold effect over June. the c. kousa species has quite a range, with Cornus kousa ‘China Girl’ being the established favourite for greeny off-white flowers, but ‘Satomi has boldly deep pink flowers. Most varieties are also known well-loved to their spectacular Autumn displays of leaves going through the changes from green through hues of orange and purple-red, before shedding just before Winter’s onset. A wonderful choice of small specimen tree for something that is just ‘that bit different’ and that will engage the eye and draw comments from all who view this splendid specimen during its peak-months. All Cornus thrive in full sun, with fertile but free-draining soil, and are generally very undemanding in terms of pruning, or pest and disease problems.
Hydrangea petiolaris – such a spectacular climber with incredible displays of large white sprays of white, which can be so bold and magnificent when seen at this time of year. Best planted and trained against wall, where – after a short period of training and supporting, it will happily self-cling and take care of itself from thereon. Initially it is slow-growing, so do not be surprised or disappointed if ‘not much happens’ for the first couple of years after planting – this plant is an investment, and is best grown with a view to the long-term future of its site. It can be contained quite easily, and will happily bounce back and respond well to hard-pruning and tough training, but can just as easily scale up a 10m wall, to unleash its full potential. Loves the sun, but will also be happy in partial shade. Like all Hydrangeas, it appreciates rich, fertile soil, and does require a bit of water. However, once established, these climbers take care of themselves – if it thrives, then there is nothing you need do except stand back and admire its beauty and splendour, and occasionally get up that ladder to hack back at will.
Gareth’s tips for March
14th Feb:
Jobs for the month of March
1. Prune! Prune, prune, prune… Roses, Wisteria, fruit trees, climbers, all deciduous shrubs. Nice and hard – the secret is to ‘treat them mean, keep them keen.’ Do not be hesitant or nervous, just give them a hard cutting back. If in doubt – then please get in touch with us, and we can carry out such work, or offer a professional consultancy and advice service, for pruning, and all horticultural matters. Leave the evergreens alone, unless necessary – definitely avoid Box at all costs; blight is rife when cut at this time of year.
2. Lawns – get those forks in! Spike where growth is poor, and drainage is an issue. Fill in holes with lawn sand. Also get your mower serviced now ready for the spring, and check any other tools that might need sharpening or mending.
3. Think about mulching – March is the optimal time. Applying a generous layer of organic mulch onto the soil in March, will benefit your garden for the entire year.
4. Now is the time to give your garden a good spring clean. Get everything cleared up now – all leaves and debris etc…
5. Plant any summer flowering bulbs before it is too late. March is really the last opportunity to get them in the ground.
6. Start protecting any new spring shoots from slugs by putting down any slug pellets etc now.
7. If you are thinking of transplanting any trees or shrubs do it now while they are still dormant and therefore less likely to go into shock.
8. Fertilise and trees and shrubs preferably with a slow release fertiliser.
9. Weeding your garden well now will save a lot of time later on in the year.
10. Fix any fencing or other structures before they become covered in plants again as it will make your life a lot easier and the job quicker.
February Garden News and Tips
5th Feb:
Welcome to the latest news and tips from the garden maintenace team. Winter seems to be never ending at the moment and I think everyone is now in need of warm weather and some sunshine, including our gardens.
Anyway here at Harrington Porter we are looking forward to the year ahead and below we have listed a few things to do during the month of February in order to help prepare your garden for what hopefully will be a lovely long hot summer.
- Prune any summer flowering shrubs
- Tie in wall trained fruit trees and bushes
- Finish pruning fruit trees
- Dig any unworked vacant ground
- Keep off lawns in frosty weather
- Ensure that the mower is serviced
- Spike lawns to aid drainage
- Provide food and water for garden birds
- Prune back your Wisteria
This year we are trying to encourage more of our clients to think about their gardens earlier in the year, so any maintenance work booked in during February will get a 20% discount on the labour costs. If you have any questions that you want answered by our maintenance team please get in contact and I’m sure we will be able to help you out.
