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Things to do in the garden in March
21st Feb:
1. During this cold snap don’t forget to feed birds in the garden. There are not many berries left for the birds at this time of year and they will be laying eggs soon. The more birds the better as they help clear the garden of slugs and other garden pests.
2. Check and clean tools. This is one of those jobs that there is never time for. Now is a good time to make sure everything is washed, polished, cleaned and oiled.
3. Re pot or top dress shrubs and plants in pots and window boxes. This is the best time of year to do this, doing this before spring will give your plants and soil the nutrients for the following season and will give you a fabulous display later in the year. You can also now change your window plants from winter bedding plants to fresh spring option such as Primroses, Hellebores and Primulas.
4. Tidy herbaceous borders (prune of old stems of herbaceous plants).This is a job every gardener loves doing. It gives you so much satisfaction at the end of a day it‘s like spring cleanign the garden. Tidy plants by cutting them back and removing dead wood. Ideally mulch after and wait for spring.
5. Prune overgrown evergreens like Prunus laurocerasus (laurel), Acuba japonica (spotted laurel) Viburnum tinus Viburnum then feed with organic fertilizer and mulch with organic matter
Fertilizer=plant food
Manure =garden duvet
6. Manure borders. At this time of year your garden should be cleared of all winter leaves and tidied for spring. Once the garden is clear this is the best time to mulch your borders with fresh manure. Spring flowering bulbs will have a perfect clean and dark back drop so you be able to see them better.
Manure (composted leaves twigs and some beneficial fungi) acts like a ‘duvet’ for the ground. It helps to keep it warm and also stops those little weeds peeking through as soon as the first warmth of spring arrives. Later on in the year it can be dug in to the border which will improve the soil structure and make nutrients more accessible for the plants.
7. Apply organic fertilizers like seaweed meal, blood fish and bone and pelleted chicken manure. Applying organic fertilizers now allows it to break down and be easily accessible for hungry plants when the weather warms up and vegetation will come back to life again.
Gardening and bulb Tips for November
15th Nov:
This time last year winter had well and truly arrived, this year nature is giving us a greater opportunity to complete those outstanding gardening task.
Traditionally November is a busy time in the garden especially with regards to planting (bare-rooted and/or root balled hedging, trees and shrubs.
• Remove fallen leaf from lawn areas and use to make leaf mould, an excellent compost for planted border. Simply dampen collected leaves and store in a black plastic bag. Pierce bag and set aside for 6 months
• Check and remove (rake/scarify) any moss and thatch from lawn areas
• If temperatures remain mild, grass will continue to grow, wait for dry conditions before giving the lawn a trim
• Apply autumn/winter lawn feed (high in phosphates and potash) to encourage good root development
• November is a good month to take a critical look at the garden, correct any mistakes, determine and plan changes for spring and try something new
• With a mild Autumn so far there is still time to plant your spring flowering bulbs. Here at some suggestions for some last minute bulb planting:
o Tulip Montreux, Tulip Fantasy, Leucojum aestivum, Nerine bowdenii and Fritallaria meleagris.
• Daffodils don’t have to be boring, here are some stunning and unusual suggestions:
o Narcissi Ambergate, Narcissi Audubon, Narcissi Rip Van Winkle, Narcissi Polar Ice & Narcissi Cum Laude.
Gareths plants for June
23rd May:
Roses – Now is their peak-time, as June sees all Roses in their absolute element. Options and scope for selection are huge – shrub Roses, old and modern, hybrid tea, floribunda, groundcover, climbing, rambling, species – it can be quite confusing at times to find the ‘right Rose, for the right space’. Generally speaking, they prefer as much sun as possible – there are some exceptions though, such a R. ‘New Dawn’ – an amazing climber. R. ‘Iceberg’ is the all-time modern favourite, and for good reason, as this will flower well into December if happy, and is relatively easy to please. However, my favourite is R. ‘Margaret Merril’ which is unique in the fact that it is a cross between a hybrid tea and a floribunda, and so means that it has highly-scented, large flowers, in abundance – a total winner! Pink buds fade to faint blush and the white flowers that are both huge and sweetly-scented. Black spot and aphids can be a nuisance with all Roses – and sprays combined with fertiliser can prevent both of these, if used correctly. Spray with a combi-spray before blackspot/aphids appear – ‘Roseclear’ is a popular and effective commercial brand. Repeat every 6 weeks. Also, remember, a stressed plant is a vulnerable plant. This may sound silly – but if there is adequate light and sun, rich but free draining soil, and regular watering during dry spells, then a Rose will gain vigour and most importantly – resilience. Much like us – kept healthy and happy, our immune systems are at their best!
Lavender – Now we see why this plant is one of the most well-known and best loved plants throughout history. Tough, independent, undemanding – when happy, Lavender is the kind of plant that thrives on neglect and lack-of-attention. It’s demands are few, but very specific, and often neglected at the expense of its performance – soil, must be free draining, gritty, sandy, relatively low in terms of nutrient content. It hates ‘wet feet’ for long periods, and so free-draining sorry is essential if it is to get through our wet and cold Winters. If needs be, dig in large amounts of horticultural grit and sand into your soil – it’s well worth the effort. Full sun is a must, and water should be modest and reserved. Clip back all the current year’s growth by two thirds at the end of the season, to retain shape and promote bushiness. Spray with a systemic insecticide once or twice in late Spring and early Summer to prevent beetle attack (not a widespread problem, but if a beetle attack happens, it really does ‘happen’, leaving widespread ugly foliage from their roaming, munching habits). L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ is your tradition ‘English Lavender’ – nice and big, dark blue, hardy as they come. If space is an issue, then go for L. ang. ‘Munstead’ which has violet flowers, and reaches half the height of Hidcote at only 40cm. White Lavender is always up and down in terms of fashion trends dictated – largely – by Chelsea. But, it does have its place, and I often use it for that splash of cool, clean white that works so well against its silvery foliage. Lavandula stoechas is the French, or ‘bunny rabbit’ Lavender – very pretty and fun flowers with ribbons of petals at the top, this species is a wonderful choice but is slightly more tender than our English varieties.
Salvia x superba ‘Mainacht’ – the most loved and used of the Salvias. The family is huge, and includes white, black-purple, pink, and the whole range of purple, flowering varieties. Most tend to respond well to being cut back immediately after flowering, to produce a second bloom of smaller, but still impressive, flowers. Be swift and confident – as soon as they have definitely passed their best – even if there are still a few flowers left – cut all flowers back to the next set of unopened buds below the flowers. Or, if feeling a little impatient and reckless – go in there with the sheers… it WILL come back! Much like Lavender, these plants thrive in the same conditions. Salvias are best used in bold displays of at least 3 – be confident, and plant a large clump or sweeping line of them. A wonderful plants for bees and butterflies too.
Cornus kousa – a spectacular and unusual specimen tree, especially useful where space is limited. Its 4-petaled, slightly odd – but deeply striking – flowers are profusely displayed to bold effect over June. the c. kousa species has quite a range, with Cornus kousa ‘China Girl’ being the established favourite for greeny off-white flowers, but ‘Satomi has boldly deep pink flowers. Most varieties are also known well-loved to their spectacular Autumn displays of leaves going through the changes from green through hues of orange and purple-red, before shedding just before Winter’s onset. A wonderful choice of small specimen tree for something that is just ‘that bit different’ and that will engage the eye and draw comments from all who view this splendid specimen during its peak-months. All Cornus thrive in full sun, with fertile but free-draining soil, and are generally very undemanding in terms of pruning, or pest and disease problems.
Hydrangea petiolaris – such a spectacular climber with incredible displays of large white sprays of white, which can be so bold and magnificent when seen at this time of year. Best planted and trained against wall, where – after a short period of training and supporting, it will happily self-cling and take care of itself from thereon. Initially it is slow-growing, so do not be surprised or disappointed if ‘not much happens’ for the first couple of years after planting – this plant is an investment, and is best grown with a view to the long-term future of its site. It can be contained quite easily, and will happily bounce back and respond well to hard-pruning and tough training, but can just as easily scale up a 10m wall, to unleash its full potential. Loves the sun, but will also be happy in partial shade. Like all Hydrangeas, it appreciates rich, fertile soil, and does require a bit of water. However, once established, these climbers take care of themselves – if it thrives, then there is nothing you need do except stand back and admire its beauty and splendour, and occasionally get up that ladder to hack back at will.
Gareth’s plants for May
18th Apr:
Deciduous shrub – Syringa vulgaris ‘Katherine Havermeyer’. This is a double-flowered variety of the common Lilac that has clusters of pink buds that develop into lavender blue, with such a sweet and deep fragrance. Most Lilacs can and will grow into large shrubs or small trees if left unchecked. However they respond very well to hard (almost savage) pruning, but do this immediately after flowering if you wish this plant to flower the following year. They prefer full sun, and fertile, free draining soil, but will tolerate partial shade, and poor soil. An excellent plant to tolerant polluted sites too. If space is an issue, then go for S. meyeri ‘Palibin’ (my personal favourite), which is very slow growing, and smaller in terms of leaf and fower size, reaching 1.5m maximum height and spread. This plant is extra special as it often repeats its display of flowers in Autumn – which is an exceptional bonus!
Evergreen shrub – Rhododendron. Absolute stunners, and breath-taking plants! If you’re cynical or not a fan of the ol’ Rhodo, then I challenge you to get down to Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park and come back a converted fan and believer! A huge range of colours and forms. All require moist, fertile, acidic soil – they simply will not thrive in poor or alkaline soils. Some people misunderstand this concept though – most London soil IS slightly acidic, with 6.5 being the norm – this is fine. Indulge the plants with generous mulches of ericaceous compost or manure (which is naturally acidic), and if the leaves ever yellow then feed with sequestered iron, or apply a slow-release ericaceous fertiliser. Most Rhododendrons will reach 3m or so, but there are many excellent dwarf varieties to choose from too. Azaleas are members of the Rhododendron genus, and are great for generous displays of smaller families – and deciduous Azaleas have amazing scented flowers. They prefer light shade, but will tolerate full sun only if their roots are kept moist. Azaleas will tolerate more shade than Rhododendrons.
Ornamental tree – Cercis siliquastrum. The Judas tree puts on one of those most stunning, and quite unusual flowering displays of all ornamental trees. The flowers most often come on wood that is one year old, but often also on very old wood – so you will often see a tree with flowers spurting from its trunk, and the base of its branches, creating a flowering display that starts from the very depths of the canopy, right out to the tips. These trees prefer deep and fertile soil, that is also well-drained, and prefer full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. Their foliage is almost as stunning as the flowers, which is heart shaped, and almost purple, turning boldy yellow in the Autumn before they drop.
Herbaceous – Dicentra spectabilis. This herbaceous plants has many affection names such as ‘bleeding heart’, ‘lady’s locket’ and even ‘lady-in-the-bath’! A wonderful performer for semi shade in rich, fertile soil, but can tolerate full sun if kept moist. Flower displays last well into the Summer, with a range of boldest and brightest pink, and white varieties, and also a yellow one if you go for the climbing species D. scanens. The pendant, heart-shaped flowers are borne along the length of their stems and, as the legendary Monty Don puts it, they look like ‘tender origami’ . D. spectabilis f. alba is pure white and stunning – a very classic and elegant choice for the contemporary garden. D. spectabilis ‘Stuart Boothman’ has deep pink flowers with blue/grey leaves, and will spread into a mat of groundcover very quickly. All Dicentras have very ornate, delicate leave that make it look like a member of the Fern family, with the added-bonus of flowers!
Bulb – Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’. This variety of Allium is still one of the most widely used and popular, but there is huge range within the family from tiny, stumpy plants, to ones that will reach head-height, with flowers the size of a football, in a range of purples and white. The plants like full sun, and fertile, free draining soil, and will tolerate some drought. Plant masses of bulbs in Autumn for impressive displays in the subsequent years. Potted bulbs can be bought, but are far more expensive than bulbs. Enjoy these plants long after they have flowered, by leaving their decorative seedheads as a lasting display through the Summer months – or make some room in the garden and bring them indoors to dry, and then treasure them for years!
Climber – Wisteria. An absolute classic that has never fallen in popularity or fashion since it was first cultivated. Stunning, pendant racemes of scented flowers, sometimes more than 30cm long. These plants are tough, vigorous, and easy to care for – provided you follow the rules! They need full sun, but will tolerate partial shade, fertile soil that is moist but also well-drained. If you have an established plant that flowers every year then you are incredibly lucky – if you have just purchased one then be warned: Wisterias can take up to 7 years to flower, even under the best conditions, after planting. Correct pruning is essential to encourage flower development. In mid/late Summer cut back all shoots to a third of their current growth. From late Autumn to the end of Winter, cut these shoots back to 2 or 3 buds. Note – the later you leave this, strictly speaking, is best. However, I regularly spur prune Wisterias in September that perform fabulously the following year. For a generous show, cut to 3 buds; for a spectacular show of less but much more impressively-sized flowers, then cut back to single buds.
Gardening jobs for April
16th Mar:
Jobs for April
1) Slugs and snails – they’re starting to wake up, so do beware! It’s early days, but a mild spell will see them destructively active, and they will munch up any tasty new shoots and growth. Slug pellets are effective, but a risk for birds and pets; nematodes are effective – highly effective, easy to source online through mail-order; birds are great – entice them with food and water, and enjoy their company; copper tapes around pots is great, but slugs can come up through the holes in the bottom and bypass; anti-slug drenches are very effective – they will wipe out everything in sight, but they’re very strong, and aren’t good for soil organisms. Do your research, and consider your options. If you have a ‘major slug problem’ – accept it, and adapt. There are many plants that slugs won’t touch – even some varieties of Hostas (their favourite).
2) Lawns – time to kill that moss. Use a drench or spray, and get on top of it now. Scarify in a month, and give your grass room to grow and re-colonise. Perfect time to lay new turf, and it’s fine to reseed a lawn now. Have a look, and think that if ‘it looks bad now, imagine it in the hot Summer months’ – now is the time for major repairs, or starting-from-scratch, or simply improving what you have.
3) Pruning – it’s not too late to prune your Roses, ornamental grasses, deciduous shrubs etc… get them ready for their new growth. Prune your Dogwoods, and other Winter-interest-stem-plants. Get them right down low, and they shall shoot back up. Shrubs that flower in late-Summer can still have drastic pruning work, and will still flower. Late Spring/early Summer-flowering shrubs should be left, unless you can accept them not flowering this year.
4) Pot plants – get them re-potted now, if they look like they could do with the extra room. Top dress plants that are happy in their pots with a good few inches of compost – ‘proper’ compost, either manure, or home-made; never ‘multi-purpose’.
5) Plant, plant, plant – it’s still a perfect time to get large and mature, specimen shrubs into your garden. They’re dormant, so require little in the way of watering, and availability is good for ‘instant’ hedges, trees, and mature plants. Perfect time to invest, and think of the near-future.
6) Weeding. Dig over those beds and catch your weeds before they go to seed and spread. Trust me thos will save a lot of time later in the year.
Gareth’s Plants for March
18th Feb:
It’s not all hard-work and grim weather! Look out for the following plants, which we offer at very competitive prices, and can source any variety or number.
Viburnum – this is their time. Gorgeous, opulent flowers – both bare-stemmed and on evergreens. V.tinus is the good old favourite – for good reason. But look out for V. bodnatense and V. opulum, as well as many other species. Most are shade tolerant, unfussy about soil conditions, and are forgiving about neglect – just leave them alone, and enjoy. When they get too big, prune them back hard, and they will come back stronger and more glorious than before! A must-have!
Helleborus – sheer beauty and elegance during these dull and dire months. It cheers the heart to see these wondrous plants put on such a show at this time of year. Again, they are tolerant of shade – they like it in fact, and will tolerate all soils, although they do prefer rich soils. Many types to choose from, but the more spectacular hybrids are worth going for, although they cost slightly more as they are all carefully hand-pollinated to ensure they come ‘true’. If you want to save money though, or buy a generous amount while saving the pennies, go for H. niger or H. foetidus – absolute stunners!
Daphne – a scent to rival Gardenias, Jasmine, and all the other ‘greats’. Such a smell at such a time of year is precious, and should be indulged and cherished. These plants are shade tolerant, but they need rich soil – a great choice to have in pots. Put them outside your front door at this time of year to greet you with their heavenly scent each time you pass them. When their flowers are over, move the pots to a quiet corner of the garden, and pull them back out next year.
Jasmine – not just for Summer! Winter-flowering Jasmine is one of the great joys at this time of year a bold display of cheery yellow blooms, festooned all over. These plants are tough, and will grow in any soil, though they do prefer a sunny site. They flower on one-year-old wood, so prune early in the year, after flowering, to encourage the maximum display the following year. A wonderful plant that will spread and grow endlessly, if allowed. But, at the same time, easy to maintain and contain.
Clematis – every month you will find Clematis in flower! C. cirrhosa is a true marvel. Evergreen, tough, strong, fast growing and heavy-flowering. Only comes in white, cream or freckled-flowers, with nodding bells that last for months. A wonderful species of Clematis, this plant will take care of itself, and cover a large area within a few years if desired. It needs something to grab hold of, such as trellis or wire, but is self-clinging – so no need to tie in! It prefers a sunny site, and good soil. In Summer it gets tired, so it is great when combined with Summer-flowering climbers that it can grow alongside with, such as Roses, or Summer-flowering Clematis.
Gareth’s tips for March
14th Feb:
Jobs for the month of March
1. Prune! Prune, prune, prune… Roses, Wisteria, fruit trees, climbers, all deciduous shrubs. Nice and hard – the secret is to ‘treat them mean, keep them keen.’ Do not be hesitant or nervous, just give them a hard cutting back. If in doubt – then please get in touch with us, and we can carry out such work, or offer a professional consultancy and advice service, for pruning, and all horticultural matters. Leave the evergreens alone, unless necessary – definitely avoid Box at all costs; blight is rife when cut at this time of year.
2. Lawns – get those forks in! Spike where growth is poor, and drainage is an issue. Fill in holes with lawn sand. Also get your mower serviced now ready for the spring, and check any other tools that might need sharpening or mending.
3. Think about mulching – March is the optimal time. Applying a generous layer of organic mulch onto the soil in March, will benefit your garden for the entire year.
4. Now is the time to give your garden a good spring clean. Get everything cleared up now – all leaves and debris etc…
5. Plant any summer flowering bulbs before it is too late. March is really the last opportunity to get them in the ground.
6. Start protecting any new spring shoots from slugs by putting down any slug pellets etc now.
7. If you are thinking of transplanting any trees or shrubs do it now while they are still dormant and therefore less likely to go into shock.
8. Fertilise and trees and shrubs preferably with a slow release fertiliser.
9. Weeding your garden well now will save a lot of time later on in the year.
10. Fix any fencing or other structures before they become covered in plants again as it will make your life a lot easier and the job quicker.
